Food and Wine, Part 2: Have Party Will Travel

Ever the perennial partygoer, Andy Warhol once said, "One's company, two's a crowd and three's a party." Here, here! Ah, Andy if only I been born a couple of decades earlier, the New York nightlife wouldn't have known  how to handle us.

I've never been accused, nor do I imagine I will, of not loving a great party. Evite arrives in the inbox, and I am the first to reply, depends on who is throwing the party naturally, and the venue has to be to my liking, but I can generally be counted on to be in attendance. Birthday, Holiday,or simply just because someone get a notion.

And then an epiphany!  I hawk wine for a living.  Why should my party advice stop when customers leave the store? I can direct this bash from beginning to its show stopping finish when the only things left are the dirty glasses and the die-hards scouring for the last drop!

Nary a day goes by when some nervous individual doesn't waltz in the store with menu in tow inquiring, "What wines would should I serve at my party." First of all there's nothing to be nervous about, it is simply a  party after all.  "The right wines," I reply, and "let's start with bubbles, and if there's no red involved you might as well cancel the whole affair. "

All you need is delicious food, the right company (leave the stodgy stiffs off the list) and, of course, wine! The rest will pretty much take care of itself.

I plan, I pour and I pontificate (although that gets a wee difficult after the guests finish their third glass) even though they try in vein to remain rapt listeners.

 Brittan and Brad Bolin, lobbyist and Assistant Clerk to the Illinois House of Representatives respectively,  were the first to take a chance on me. Bless their hearts. "We know you will do a great job," Brittan said in her quiet confident demeanor. That was nearly seven years ago, and the Bolins and I have been partying ever since.

Dependent upon her mood and where she and Brad's travels have taken them in the current calendar year, Brittan chooses a different theme each year. Last year was simply, "Our Favourites", the year before it was Germany and Austria, France prevailed the year before. This year it was no question. A Mediterranean theme dominated their thoughts after tasting and touring through the idyllic island of Greece.

I was pleased as our small but burgeoning Greek section was in dire need of some well-deserved love. Never a major player on the world wine scene and more (in)famous for Retsina, Greece's is just now living up to its potential,  attracting admirers for its racy whites and full-bodied reds. Tuscany, France and Italy fleshed out the rest of my wine selections.

Fresh from cutting her teeth in Chicago at a major catering company, my friend Ashley Glatz, proprietor of Real Cuisine, provided the exotic array of native Greek dishes.

The Illustrious chef herself, Ashley Glatz and her fiancee Cory, quite the chef himself!

The menu follows along with the wines and my thoughts on how the food and wine get on with each other.

Brittan's Brilliant Beef Tenderloin

Real Cuisine

Mediterranean Cocktail Menu

Tortellini Skewers

 with Broccoli Pesto

Meze Platter

with Homemade Dolmathes,

Feta, Olives, and Marinated Mushrooms

Borek

Turkish Cheese & Herb Filled Pastries

Smokey Babaganoush and Tzatzki

with Toasted Pita

Bruschetta

With Tapenade, Caponata, and Rosemary White Bean Spread

Pinchos Morunos

Spiced Saffron Pork Kebabs

Baklava

Sugar Cookies (from an 1812 recipe) No pic available, just let your mind wander!!

WHITES

2010 Sigalas White, Greece – Economically, they are in peril, but the wine industry just may be Greece’s saving grace. Established in 1991, the Sigalas estate and its owners recognized the impending need for modern technology in order for the estate to flourish. Modern vinification methods were implemented while bottling and aging equipment was purchased. In 1994 the estate achieved organic status. Born of popular native varietals Assyrtiko and Athiri on the picturesque island of Santorini, this complex blend bears comparisons to White Burgundy in that it’s aged in stainless steel and guided by a strong influence of acidity. Defined by a sense of vivacity and freshness as well as suggestions of lemon and mineral, it will endear itself to fans normally keen on Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. Results: Pairs brilliantly with the feta cheese as it has that crispy crunchy salty air aromas that mingles well with the salt from the feta. Try it with the Turkish Cheese and Herb filled pastries as it is normally difficult to pair wine with spinach. A nice complement to the Tzatzki (cucumber) sauce on pita bread. So so versatile, it works well with the Tortellini skewers; basil based dishes crave dry whites with high acid or else the wine will fade before you swallow the first sip. 

2009 Lafleur Pouilly-Fuisse, France –  Pouilly- Fuisee achieved fame decades ago and today it is still one of the most recognized appellations in the Burgundy region of France. Georges Dubeouf awakened people to the charm of this area, but niche, small production producers have achieved more impressive results. Located in the sub region of Maconnais, this chardonnay-based wine is reveals bright fruit with elements of pear and ripe apple charged by pure-bright acidity and background mineral. The fruit profile is forward enough to consume on its own or pair with fish, chicken or pesto dishes. Results: The creaminess from the wine mingles nicely with the olive oil from the Tortellini skewers. Matches nicely with the Baklava as the pear and apple fruit from the wine wraps around the moderately sweet nuances from the Baklava.

REDS

2009 Les Vins de Vienne Les Cranilles Cotes du Rhone, France  Located in the Southern Rhone Valley in France, this charmer is a collaboration of four of the top premier winemakers in the Northern Rhone who purchased grapes believing they could outdo their brethren in the South. Grenache is in the driver’s seat with significant contributions from Syrah and Mourvedre. Their impressive effort implies a resemblance to Gigondas or Vacqueryas with its rich style, dark brooding fruit and notes of earth, cassis and herbs. Results: The smokiness and earthiness that permeate the marinated mushrooms and the Babaganoush are also present in the wine so it's just natural the three of them would to get to know each other, remember what Andy said, "Three's a party.

2009 Villa des Anges Cabernet, France  – Arguably the most popular red wine varietal on the planet, cabernet settles in quite comfortably in the South of France. This medium to full-bodied concentrated cabernet releases impressions of cassis, black cherry fruit, and Asian spices buoyed by sound but not intrusive tannins. Results: A big cab necessitates red meat so it's no surprise that Brittan's Beef Loin is the inevitable choice but it also works with the marinated mushrooms too. 

2008 Coltibuono Chianti Classico, Italy –   Each wine region produces an ascendant star; Bordeaux and Burgundy’s centuries long reign in France is evident to even mere wine novices, while Chianti is the undisputed titan in Tuscany, Italy. There’s no denying Chianti’s well-earned place in wine history, and Coltibuono’s contribution has not gone unnoticed. Perennially popular? Yes, but they refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity; integrity wins out here. Aged in French oak and tailored to a modern palate, albeit with some rustic edges, this savoury Sangiovese is imbued with bright, tingly cherry fruit, herbs, and spice vividly brought to life with heart acidity.  Results: I have said it before, and I will say it again: Italian wine needs food. The protein from the beef and lamb rounds the acidic edges of the Chianti, but on the flip side the acidity and tannin of the wine is vital as it allows the wine to rendezvous with the meat.

2007 Alpha Syrah , Greece  - Greece’s white wine potential is clearly recognised. Next on the agenda is their looming goal to upend consumers’ mindset about red wine; cultivating a red wine following is about as easy as running a marathon while chain smoking cigarettes. Talk is talk but proof is in the pudding. Having tasted this syrah several times over the past year and other Greek reds, I must say I am surprisingly impressed. They are no longer one-note, village wines meant for the moment; they are meant for an occasion, a celebration. Inroads are being made, and the Alpha Syrah can deservedly assume some of the credit. The fruit is sourced from the Turtles Vineyard (this is the area where the lazy creatures would lounge and sun themselves centuries ago).  It unfolds with delightful cherry aromas and silky ripe fruit on the palate then assumes a new identity redolent of Darjeeling tea and Herbs de Provence which are just downright irresistible, but its focused structure and tannins that culminate into a stretched-out finish elevate it to contender status. Results: The earthy quality from the  Lamb Kabobs and the protein-rich Beef Tenderloin demand a hearty red.

The wonderful hostess, Brittan Bolin and myself, and our fellow wine and food enthusiasts

Cheers
The Wine Scribe
Michael

The Evolution of Food and Wine: Part 1

Like Bogart and Bacall, like Vegas and the poker tables, like a lazy Sunday afternoon and football (don't get too accustomed to the sports metaphors), food and wine are forever inextricably linked. Food enhances and changes a wine's character and vice versa. They should complement and fawn over each other, not tussle and tango, save that for the dance floor. 

Americans delight in their food and wine, but save for the last 5 years, the two were mutually exclusive. Not anymore. As far as Europeans are concerned, they scoff at the notion of just lazily sipping a wine after dinner. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a glass of red on the heels of a frenetic day selling wine at the Corskcrew; sometimes that is simply all I desire. But if I am preparing Seafood Linguini or Moroccan Chicken my thoughts turn to wine. If I am preparing a plate of pasta adorned with mushroom marinara, I let my mind envision images of a Chianti Classico or a Barbera from Piedmont. 

Years ago I overheard a customer say, "I think I will enjoy a cabernet after dinner." He was grilling steaks on his new Weber Grill.  Why wasn't he drinking the wine with his slab of grilled beef? Is he barking mad? I haven't touched red meat in nearly two decades but even I could see the error of his ways. After some prodding he promised me he would change his ways. Returning a week later wearing a big smile, he declared the cabernet a winner.  Might it have had something to do paring the cab with the steak as protein from the meat will temper those taut tannins?

My first dalliance with food and wine was illuminating and invigorating to say the least. Everything finally clicked, as it did when ultimately I figured out how to master my DVR.  A fancy, extravagant restaurant in Chicago with a 3-month wait list? No. Strangely, it was right here in Springpatch, on the northend of town, a stone's throw from the long since closed roller rink and just around the corner from a gay bar which has since turned into a destination for Harley enthusiasts. If those walls could talk, eh? 

Of course, I am referring to Magic Kitchen, a local hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant that's been a staple of the restaurant scene for over twenty years. To say it's developed a diehard following is akin to calling Steven Spielberg just another Hollywood director.  It's my de-facto choice to take out-of-town friends who are keen on what the locals love, and I do absolutely love it.  Crowd favourite Pad Thai, as well as their Chili Paste, dry Bume Noodle Soup and their spring rolls will make your mouth water. If you still have room left in your tummy try their sticky rice ice cream entrenched with peanuts and pistachio filling. Yum! 

Anyway, my moment occurred in 1996. Feeling brave, I ordered the Cashew Chicken, not a groundbreaking choice by any stretch, but it was just so damn delicious I didn't care.  I like what I like and sometimes one just wants something familiar.  When the server inquired how spicy,  I demurely replied, "Mild Plus." Medium and Hot were simply out of my comfort zone, maybe next time. 

Mind you, Magic Kitchen allowed you to bring in your own alcohol as they didn't carry a liquor license and there was no burdensome corkage fee! I love Riesling, mainly the dry sort, and the truly great ones live on for infinity if laced with proper acidity, but if Thai is in the picture, I gravitate towards a Kabinett or Spatlese. No cheap, mediocre mass-produced ones in a blue bottle but a distinguished one from the Mosel or Rheingau.  The mild plus was a bit much, but then I imbibed a sip of the Riesling and the heat did indeed assuage the heat;  it didn't disappear, it just disciplined it, took the sting out of it, if you will. I was just in awe, blushing almost. Bells were ringing and angels were singing. The habaneros, jalapenos and God knows what other spices and peppers dancing around on my palate craved the Riesling, as if they had been searching for each other all this time. 

I have prepared a list of general food and wine pairings. Some are traditional choices; other are less mainstream reflecting the emergence of new regions and niche varietals. I am, after all,  always on the prowl for new and exciting trends and undiscovered varietals. Nothing is set in stone. These are merely guidelines, not hard and fast rules. You might have something new to bring to the table, pun intended. 

I must give credit where it is due.  I developed my format from Kendall-Jackson's website, quite organized they are. They are naturally focused on promoting their own line of wines, as they should be. I maintained a few of their basic tenets of food and wine pairing, but I dramatically altered it creating an all-encompassing, uncompromising list of wine varietals, and I chose dishes I personally prepared or someone had kindly prepared for me. 

The Wine Scribe

Michael

The Evolution of Food and Wine

Choose Similar Flavors
Similar food and wine flavors complement each other.
Example: Sea Bass with mango/citrus marinade will partner with Gruner Veltliner, Albarino or Sauvignon Blanc as the lemon/lime and tropical flavors evident in the wine and marinade will play off each other.

Example: Grilled or Smoked Chicken would pair with a Cotes-du-Rhone, Spanish Tempranillo or Monastrell as they exude a smoky, earthy, slightly peppery quality.

Choose Similar Weight and Texture
Similarly weighted food and wine stabilize each other, but not always!

Example: Lobster and Chardonnay are both medium-weight and rich so they complement each other. However, an edgier, crisp wine like Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis or Dry Riesling may be necessary to cut the heaviness of lobster drenched in butter. It is simply a matter of personal preference.

Choose the Same Sweetness Level
Wine should be equal to or higher in sugar than the dish.
Example: Roasted pork with apple glaze pairs beautifully with German Riesling or an Oregon Pinot Gris.

Example: Chocolate with Port

Salt Needs Crispness
Crisp wines balance salty flavors.
Example: A crisp Dry Riesling or Sancerre balances salty olives, goat and feta cheese.

Pair with the Sauce
Pair the wine to the sauce served.
Example: An Italian Gavi or an Alsatian Pinot Blanc will match with Pasta Primavera as the pasta and wines are texture-rich yet the acid level of the wine will counter the weight of the pasta.

Example:  Lemon-glazed chicken would pair with a Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre or Chablis as these wines typically convey suggestions of lemon and a fair amount of acid.

Example: A Red Burgundy teamed up with Cornish game hens accompanied by a pomegranate sauce will sing beautifully as the Burgundy reveals an array of berry flavors.

No Sauce? Pair with the Meat
Match wine to meat, fish or poultry when serving without a sauce. Stick with an all-purpose wine.
Example: Pinot Noir partners perfectly with Duck or Salmon; Chardonnay or German Riesling with turkey.

Example:  A White Burgundy, American Chardonnay (not too oaky, please!) or Pinot Gris/Grigio matched with Roast chicken or Baked Fish.

It Is All In The Way You Treat The Meat

Meat doesn’t always dictate the style of wine; the herbs, sauces and spices run the show.

Example: A chicken breast slathered with BBQ sauce necessitates a Shiraz, Red Zin or Rhone Wine

Example: On the flip side, if you marinate the chicken in Italian dressing or a soy sauce/honey/ cilantro glaze one would choose a Dry Riesling, Gruner, Sauvignon Blanc or a Soave.

Spicy Foods
Sweeter wines temper the heat from spicy foods.
Example: Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Vouvray pairs well with Asian cuisines like Pad Thai or Sushi; the sweet from the wine and the heat from the food create a teeter-totter effect.

A “Meaty” wine for a Meaty dish
Grilled meat or Pasta dishes demand formidable wines equipped with sturdy tannins and acid so they will flourish not fade.  Plus, the protein of the food will soften the tannins and acid creating a more approachable wine when paired with food rather than simply alone.

Example: A Red Zinfandel, Cabernet-based Bordeaux, Barolo or Shiraz with Seared Ahi Tuna or a Filet.

Example: A Chianti or Brunello partnered with Fresh Parmesan is a classic; the parm will tone down the tannic structure of these Sangiovese-based wines.

Consider Acid Levels
Like sweetness, wine should be equal to, or higher, in acid than the dish so the food can match wits with the wine.
Example: Chianti or Barbera matches well with tomato-based sauce as both the food and the wine come equipped with a high degree of acidity.

Take My Breath Away

"I need summer whites," everyone has been screaming lately. "Sheets at Macy's," I sarcastically replied to a customer I kibitz with on a regular basis.  She rolled her eyes and told me I had ten minutes to complete my task and "nothing with any oak, I hate oak" she proudly said as if oak were her archenemy.

Easy enough,  not a problem. No fan of oak myself, I gravitate towards clean, crisp and clear whites, no oak to muddy the fruit. Although, I must make exception for some Premier Cru White Burgundy, but that wasn't in her budget so it wasn't an issue. She left happy, and I was given carte blanche to introduce her to a world of dry Riesling, Cortese and Gruner Veltliner. What, no Pinot Grigio? Not if I have anything to say about the matter.

As the heat ravages the entire country not to mention the suffocating humidity the Midwest is blessed with, white wines sales have skyrocketed. I haven't seen anything like it since, well, last summer. I drink white all year round. It simply doesn't matter whether it's a rainy fall day or sweat is dripping down my brow, I always build it up with white even though a glass of red may end up in my hand by the close of the evening.

The following reflects my personal taste, yes, and although you may be skeptical or unfamiliar with these varietals or countries, I'm convinced a brand new white wine world is waiting for you and your palate.

Cono Sur Riesling (Chile) - Medium-bodied and crisp, this Chilean gem swings towards the drier side, perfect for those of you, like myself, who are keen on that style. Striking is its chardonnay-like body, longer than expected finish and  ample acidity.  Expressions of citrus, pear and mineral form the flavour profile of this modestly priced yet impressive white. If you are looking to get your feet with dry Riesling yet still tussling with  all those horrid stories about riesling rotting your teeth out, you need look no further.


Huber Traisental Gruner Veltliner (Austria) - Chefs, wine geeks and I adore this varietal. Native to Austria, Gruner or GruVe as it's sometimes referred to, although I am not sure sure such an important wine be saddled with a nickname. However, as long as it's being talked about and consumed, I really don't have a problem with what moniker you attach to it.  I champion Gruner at nearly every opportunity, sometimes my intensity may just get the best of me but I mean well, really. The vineyards are comprised of rock, slate and stone, barely any grass, no resemblance to California at all more like a cemetery after a tornado knocked blew down all the headstones. Capturing the terroir perfectly, the medium-bodied Huber struts out  citrus,stone, white pepper, lime and herbs. Its complexity and  its crackling acidity bodes well for food: Indian, Basil-based Thai dishes and cream-based soups.

Castelvero Cortese (Italy) - Cultivated in Piedmont in northwest Italy,  Cortese generally calls Gavi home and with that designation Cortese can zoom into the $20 mark and beyond. This gem falls outside of that particular zone but the quality isn't compromised and you save a few bucks. Palate-awakening, it conveys citrus, mineral, crisp apple and lemon. If you are devoted to sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio then check out this charmer. Pairs wonderfully with chicken, scallops, olive-oil based pasta or just sip away sans food.

Rocky Gully Dry Riesling (Australia) - For a country so identified for their high octane shiraz, they are wholly underestimated for their age-worthy dry Riesling. Riesling craves cooler climate, and OZ gets a wee bit hot but in small cooler climate pockets they can churn out a bloody good drop of dry white wine. There is an interesting juxtaposition at work here. At one point it is defined, crisp and to the point, yet on the mid-palate it inhabits assumes a languid, lanolin-like texture. Lime, lemon zest and subtle petrol aromas flesh out the aromatic and flavour profile of this chamelon-like wine. I can't argue with the Aussies on this one. Having spend a fortnight there,  I must agree with them that oysters is their ultimate food partner although ceviche is a close second.

Cantele Negroamaro Rose (Italy) - Surely you didn't think I could pen an article on summer whites and exclude a rose. Although certainly not a white, summer time and rose go together like a hammock and the Sunday edition of the New York Times. Lovely and lush, the Negroamaro grape  from southern Central Southern Italy, is the ideal varietal for those desiring more fruit in their rose. Not a sweeter version mind you, but just a richer fruit profile featuring late season strawberries and raspberry as the headliners in this show-stopper. Ideal with fruit-based quinoa drizzled with balsamic vinegar.

Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc (South Africa) - I've always been a fan of South African Chenin even while everyone raves about their Sauvignon Blancs. I adore it because it is both simultaneously round and full yet it finish races to a decidedly dry,crisp profile; this is such a versatile with so much to offer. Crunchy, fresh-from-the orchard apples amid notions of quince and citrus drives the flavour profile. This is so inexpensive it's almost criminal.


Cheers
Michael

Don't Close the Curtain Yet! You Haven't Even Heard the Encore

A series of unfortunate incidents transpired recently at the Corkscrew, where I hang my hat peddling wine and cheese. The first time I let it go, merely an isolated incident I thought. Not three days later  it bloody well happened again. I couldn't let this fly under the radar especially given the possibility one of these customers would start to spread falsehoods. It is not one to be glossed over especially given that it occurred twice.  I was deeply concerned, even slightly annoyed.  My job, as well as my colleagues, is to educate, inform and when called upon to entertain. This was no time to entertain. This was a grave matter.  Buckling down , I was determined to stop it dead in its tracks. I am referring, of course, to ageism and the hapless victim: older vintage wine.

Recently, our sales-hungry distributors unearthed some hidden treasures from Italy and Australia buried deep within the recesses of their warehouse. "You will never guess what I found, " they exclaim like a wide-eyed child who found his Boy Scout project from years ago. 

Also, we occasionally establish contact with individuals who just impetuously decide their cellar is just too overwhelming so they elect to consign their wines with us (tough burden to bear, I know) or someone has died and left a supposed treasure of wine. One in particular, a cabernet from a huge, star-wattage vineyard in Napa, more about that later. 

Naturally, we are suspicious. We have to taste it before we strike a deal. Distributors know this, can't rely on their good word. Some are over the hill, like a long forgotten, Hollywood B-lister, the wines not the distributors that is. All their glory has faded. It's over for them. However, on occasion, due to impeccable cellaring, skill of the winemaker and a fortunate growing season, these wines have withstood the test of time. They've lingered, simmered, gathered dust, thirsting for an oenophile to appreciate all of its wonderful virtues They have more to bring to the table than their lusty, nubile, brand-spanking counterparts. For one reason or another, not everyone appreciates those virtues. What they perceive as lethargic and over-the-hill is a wine just hitting its stride. 

You wouldn't dismiss Meryl Streep as a viable actress just because she is in her 60s. Could you have imagined her playing the coldly confident magazine editor in the Devil Wears Prada while in her 30s . It never would have worked. Same theory applies here. 

The  stunning 1999 Colle Bereto Chianti Classico possessed all the essential ingredients for aging: formidable tannins, front and center acidity and dark red fruit. Upon release, yes it was promising but no where near its potential, but 11 years later it is stunning. No need for a decant as age had taken care of that issue. The tannins and acidity are gentle and the fruit is darker, not a bright and sexy red that some people prefer ( this is probably what our customer was hunting for, he, consequently, just wasn't keen on the wine, but it was by no means ready to call it quits). Herbs, antique aromas and earth fleshed out the profile. Better yet, the wine was still smiling two days, two days mind you, after opening. Guess who enjoyed the remainder of that bottle with a some pasta and a mushroom-based red sauce? It was such an enlightening experience.

The other matter involved a Cakebread Cabernet from the superb 1994 vintage in California. The man's mother insisted the wine was "no good". We smiled and took the bottle back. No point in arguing,we're not going to hold a grudge. And the condition of the wine?  It was on top of the world. Savoury, dark, and subtle, it bore no resemblance to the flashy, oaky and flamboyant fruit many gravitate towards. And if you have a predilection for that sort of thing, more power to you. Wine, just as humans, change and evolve over time. Are you going to be the same 15 years from now? How interesting would that be?

And just in case you assume whites aren't as durable as their red cousins, think again. In fact, as I write this, I have fallen in love with a 10-year-old Pinot Blanc from the Alsace region of France. Expressing a lanolin texture and fruit profile of lemon and apple, its endurance was all but guaranteed by a steady stream of stimulating acidity. My selection of baked cod topped with almonds and chives made a marvelous companion.

The 2000 Stanley Brothers Cabernet from the Barossa Valley beautifully illustrates Australia's range with cabernet.  Stored at cellar temperature (55 degrees), it upends the notion that Aussie wines are nothing but in-your-face, instant gratification guzzlers. Unfolding with accents of vanilla, earth, dusty tannins and suggestions of dark plum and cherry, this refined gem is all about finesse and balance with bold fruit and power assuming a secondary role. Forget those naysayers who insist  Aussie wine doesn't age, au contraire.

Granted, most wine, 95% approximately is meant to be consumed with a 1-3 year window. If it bears a modest price point and the winery is churning out thousands of cases, its life span is limited. No, I am sorry, you are wasting your time if you expect your beloved Yellow Tail to improve with age. Simply put, its days are numbered as soon as the checker rings it up at the grocery store. I would be extremely nervous if someone offered me glass of 2002 Yellow Tail Shiraz. Pop the cork and take it for what it is, an enjoyable one-night encounter, nothing more, nothing less.

Point being, older vintage wine is not always for everyone so don't waste a first or second growth Bordeaux on a friend who guzzles mass produced bulk wine. It is incumbent upon wine educators to inform our clients of the changes wines undergo after they mature. Some are still quite vibrant and relevant, they are emboldened by their age,  and  for those whose palates have evolved right along with the wine I have mentioned, you are in for one hell of a ride.

Cheers

Michael

Mondavi Within Our Midst

Tuesday started out as rather ho-hum.  It was just me and Danielle. Cathy was vacationing in the backwoods of West Virginia:  4-wheelers, moonshine, mountain people and all the trappings of country life. Danielle and I were pounded with phone calls from the get-go: pre-recorded sales calls, inquires as to what time we closed and my all-time favourite, Are we open? Of course we are open, I just answered the phone. Click.  Do we carry wine from New Jersey? Really. I feared what was coming next.

And then Southern Wine and Spirits Rep Dennis Klinc, as American as apple pie and hardworking and reliable  as they come, rang up. "Are we going to be around to taste some wines", he inquired? "No, I replied. I'm leaving the store to become a Ginsu Knife salesman".  "Of course, Danielle and I will be here,  Where else would we be? "Well, I've got Peter Mondavi with me in the car and he would like to sample out his newest releases".  I was absolutely sure he was putting me on. I deserved it after all. Notoriously absent minded, Dennis constantly misplaces his cell phone, computer and anything else that isn't humanly attached to his person. And just for fun, when he's in the shop, I hide these things, tormenting him even more. I absconded with his Blackberry and replaced it with a broken razor phone and he started to use it. I even moved his car once, three blocks away. This was his revenge. But, no, honest as the day is long, Dennis was telling the truth. Peter Mondavi was indeed in Springfield.

So, in they both walked.  For some reason, the Dynasty theme song was blaring in my head. Coincidentally,  Peter bore a resemblance to a young 50ish John Forsyth, tall, charming, elegant, salt and pepper hair and smartly dressed in a Navy blazer and corn flower blue T-shirt, all California calm. Comparisons aside, Peter, along with his father, Peter Sr. and his brother Mark, power their own wine dynasty buoyed  by a cadre of devoted followers. Charles Krug Winery  is as synonymous with the California wine scene as Hershey is to chocolate.

  Danielle and I were a bit palate fatigued from just having tasted and toured various other wines from scores of other peddlers. but this was a huge opportunity. I politely excused myself while I nourished myself with a salmon salad and Danielle wolfed down some rice. Dennis, naturally, forgot something at his previous appointment and ran back to retrieve it. Peter checked his email. I finished my lunch, and then I  proceeded to play wine journalist.

He didn't seem to mind. In fact, he seemed accustomed to it. Touring the country nearly a third of the year, Peter is the public relations mastermind behind Charles Krug Wines. Krug bears the distinction of being one of the most venerable and most competitive wineries still enduring long after others have given up the game and gone home; only two other wineries in California share such storied history. Say what you will, but they have longevity on their side.  Stopping in at wine shops, feeling the pulse of the wine buying public and generally making sure suppliers and shop owners are moving product are his top priorities. Definitely on top his game.  

I inquired how the tentative economy had affected sales. He confessed that everyone at all economic levels pulled back.  " However, Krug is a name brand, people want something tried and true, plus heritage and image softened the impact. We are now at pre-recession levels," he confidently said. Spoken like a confident business man who knows his product, stands behind it and expertly knows how to weather jarring economic conditions. 

In the last several years,  I have witnessed firsthand consumers' rapidly changing buying patterns and with the economic downturn our buying habits as a retailer have evolved as well; we simply had no choice if we were to survive.  If somebody is going to fork over $20 for a California cabernet, they want it to taste like a $30 cabernet. Can't blame them. There is literally a plethora of phenomenal wine out there.  There is no room for pretenders; they will fall by the wayside like a naive, out-of-shape player challenging the reigning champ at Wimbledon. Along with disciplining their wallets, consumers have sharpened their palates . The heat is on! 

Now, let's get down to brass tax. Equipped with history, vision and ambition does Krug deliver the goods? Yes and yes! 

Their fiscal friendly  CK Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent value. Alive with citrus, body and freshness, it's perfect for a summer quaffer.

Their  CK field blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Syrah  reveals pretty red fruit, delicate tannins and instant likability. 

The Charles Krug Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from prime St. Helena grapes is rich in melon, peach and passion fruit, a brilliant companion to fish.

The Charles Krug Pinot Noir (4500 cases), sired from the pinot-prized appelation of Carneros, exhibits earth, early morning dew, smoke, black cherry and spice. Can I suggest Sockeye salmon?

The Charles Krug Merlot is sturdy, robust and and rich yet sleek like a merlot should be, to many others try to don the cabernet hat. If they want merlot give 'em merlot. 

The '08 Charles Krug Cabernet, a vintage rivaling '07 some say surpasses it, Mondavi says it is superior. Holding things closer to the vest amid formidable tannins, this baby just needs time.

Finally, the '08 Krug Generation , their golden boy, if you will, is sensational. Driving this sleek Napa Bordeaux-influenced blend is 56% Cabernet, 31% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petite Verdot. Brandishing incredible depth of power and richness, its underlying weapon is finesse on the finish, in short,  balance between the feminine and the masculine. 

Who knew Tuesdays could be so rewarding? Thank you Peter. 

Cheers

Michael

The Ascension of Portugal

Just up until a scant few years ago, the mere mention of Portugal as a serious wine-producing region would have left people scoffing and dismissing the notion. Their neighbor to the east, Spain, was the Goliath to Portugal's David.  Always revered for their Port, they failed to wine kudos beyond their beloved fortified wines. Their simple, rustic table reds and whites were fine for travelers or locals.  As in political campaigns, momentum has moved in the direction of the underdog; they are now a contender. Not just because the wine press is searching for the new darling of the wine world, but because Portugal is truly earning its keep.

As an 11-year workhorse wine veteran, I have tasted Portuguese whites and reds, and I must say the positives far outweighed the negatives, yet they were the indie movie without the financial backing of a big studio. I consume Vinho Verde (Green Wine) like a mad man in the steamy heat of summer. Spritzy, light, low alcohol and  fancy fun, it is the perfect aperitif. Even a year or so back, during a weekend visit with friends in Chicago, all of us were left speechless by a polished red blend from the Dao region----at a pocket friendly $12, no less.

The never-ending recession left people hungry for exceptional wine at a fraction of what they have been accustomed to forking over at their local shops. Spain, South America and Australia swept in keeping  consumers content. But now, Portugal's was eyeing its opportunity to gain a foothold in the market.

Energetic and passionate winemakers from the Douro, Dao, Alentejo and Vinho Verde regions have kicked things into high gear. As the risk of being too wonky, they tossed out those old musty oak barrels, exploited their yields in the Alentejo and Dao region and kept things at a minimum in the Douro. The Douro  is named after the Duero River in nearby Spain. Surrounded by steep vineyards, this is the region that can in time compete on the same world wide level as Napa, Bordeaux, Barossa, OZ and Mendoza, Argentina. South of the Douro, the Dao, and the Alentejo regions, are rich with fruit-driven, friendly everyday bargains. This could potentially be a cash cow for them.

So with all this talk of Portuguese wine, a Saturday tasting at the Corkscrew was in order.  Hosted by Boy Brainerd, a native of Napa and now a wine distributor in the Chicago area, Boy defies the stereotype of a wine peddler. Sporting a thick beard and near shoulder length hair, he resembles a band member from the late 70s/early 80s era. Any Black Sabbath or AC/DC fans out there? But, boy oh boy (sorry, just couldn't resist), does Boy know his wine. Earning his stripes as the marketing and sales guru at fan fave Gundlach Bundschu, Boy is now our go-to guy for the latest Portuguese releases. He earns high marks from us as he recognizes Springfield as the actual capital of Illinois; we tend to get a little touchy when we're ignored in favor of the folks up north. His Midwestern friendly charm coupled with his mid-alto, radio-friendly voice and his many wine stories from back in the day left customers asking, "When is Boy coming back"?

The line-up included the Herade de Esporao Verdelho, a kissing cousin to Spain's Verdejo grape. This medium-bodied delight is awash in subtle citrus, island tropical fruit and melon notes cut by its backbone of tight acidity generating a lasting finish.  A perfect match with seafood-based Paella, wouldn't you say?

The Alentejo-based Monte Velho Wines, both red and white, are an absolute treasure. Talk about bang-for-your-buck.  The white is so palate-friendly with its cushiony texture, fragrant aromas and fruit profile of pear, Gala apple and baking spice notes. Eat your heart out California chardonnay.

Plush, round and pleasing, the red is chock full of flavours of plum, cherry, and vanilla lounging in the gentlest of tannins. You can pair these with chicken or fish offerings, but in all reality their causal approach is perfect for everyday quaffing sans food.

Now let's move  on to the heavy hitter. Surely you didn't think I was going to close the curtain before the grand finale. The Douro-based Assobio is a blend of Tinta Roriz (a clone of Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barroca. I know, you're thinking you don't know these varietals from adam. Native to Portugal, Touriga Nacional is the heftier of the three, Tinta Roriz conveys finesse and Tinta Barocca is used mainly for port, and obviously, red blends, mainly for conveying rich, dark hues.

Elegant and stunning with moderately leathery tannins that don't overstay their welcome, the Assobio invites comparisons to those aforementioned regions, and deservedly so. Boasting a moderate alcohol level of 13.5%,  it's anchored by a trove of  red berries and concentrated cherries amidst an intriguing undercurrent of warm, late afternoon sun, earth and mineral. Never for a moment does the Assobio morph into a heavy-handed wine; it carefully dances the tightrope of intensity and finesse from beginning to its gloriously long finish.  This is not an easy task, mind you. Many of today's wines, not going to mention any region or names here, want to hammer it home. Don't get me wrong, I love power in my wines, but if that's all you have to offer, I'm afraid I will have to break off the relationship. Sadly, the Assobio starts to fade a day after opening. Irrelevant as it won't make it that long in my house anyway. And, really, at $15, we have nothing to complain about and everything to celebrate.

Though we were done, eh? Not just yet. Boy caught us off guard with a concoction he refers to as a "Portonic". Equal amounts white port and tonic water (diet tonic for us counting calories), it is refreshing with just a sliver of sweet on the palate, not at all cloying. The fizz from the tonic add to the liveliness of this unique, summertime treat. Even my friend Carolin, another one of my Mom's, seemed to take to it and she abhors anything remotely sweet.

As long as prices remain steady, i.e. don't get too big for your britches Portugal or you will face a backlash, and the w(v)ines continue to be nourished by dedicated and innovative vintners, the sky is the limit.

Cheers
Michael

Get Your Rose On!

Let's be clear about one thing first, when the summer scorching heat and humidity reaches maximum boar as it did this week, defying the normal temperature range for early June in cerebral central Illinois, sending people inside worshiping their air conditioners, I thirst after Rose like my friend Rebecca's unending quest for  Champagne, Prosecco and all things bubbles .

But, truth be told,  I wasn't always on the Rose bandwagon.  I might have even been tossing some rotten tomatoes at those who were standing proud on that wagon.

My boss talked a blue streak about Rose as if it were a beautiful woman he met in the South of France.  I rolled my eyes and politely excused myself to the loo.  I was proud of my prejudice against this inferior wine, a mere evil twin of White Zinfandel loaded with sugar, and I wasn't about to pocket my pride.  Little did I know what I was missing.

My conversion wasn't overnight.  However, within a matter of weeks our shelves were populated with Rose, from everywhere mind you. The choice was no longer mine.  I was weary of protesting; I acquiesced. Plus, I felt compelled as a wine consultant to try this Mateus-like pinkish liquid, regardless of my disdain. My job is to sell wine. I just couldn't sneer at it all summer long, letting  it linger there collecting dust. France, Spain, the US, even Argentina, of all places, were churning out Rose faster than you could say long form birth certificate. Yes, Argentina, and that is where my conversion occurred, not in Argentina itself , perhaps if I'm so fortunate someday, but at our very own tasting bar at the Corkscrew Wine Emporium.

One of our smiling, eager distributors (suspicion levels surge, keep your guard up)  from Chicago whose portfolio is dedicated to small, niche producers and  hidden gems, pulled out a bottle of Crios Malbec Rose from Argentina from his wine briefcase. "Here we go", I thought, like I was at the doctor getting a vaccine in a long syringe on my backside. Within seconds, I was grinning from ear to ear. My rose prejudice was slipping faster than Sarah Palin's poll numbers. Its garnet colour reminded my of a lollipop from my childhood; my colleague Veronica compared it to a jollyrancher. Sipping away, I was treated to sensations of ripe strawberry, cherry, fresh cut roses and mint. But, there was more.  Surprisingly, it didn't dissipate on the first sip.  Buoyed by its acidity, body and dry finish, this baby has legs. Jeez, was I ever wrong. I'm really going to have to suck it up. Crios and I have settled into a mutual agreement. I'm allowed to flirt with others roses, yet we still enjoy each other's company several times a month.

There isn't a lot of wiggle room in regard to holding on to older vintages of Rose. They are meant to be consumed young. Some vehemently disagree, contending that French Roses, especially ones from Tavel,  which are energized with mounds of acidity will hold for several years.  The good ones do, stubbornly maintaining themselves while taking on brickish hues with subtle notes of herbs, earth,  flowers and late season fruit.  I, however, hold firm in the fact that I like my Rose brand spanking new.  Fresh out of fermentation, a few months of bottle age allowing it to settle into its new home and then into my home. So, as you would expect, sharing space next to the chicken salad and organic yogurt in my fridge are several roses, all  from 2010.

All roses are pink, course, as their minimal exposure to their red skins dictate, but their styles swing vast and far. Yes, rose is decidedly dry. Some reveal more fruit than others, but its dryness distinguishes itself from its cloying imitators. Rose wines from Tavel, a rustic, romantic town  in the South of France, home to a mere 1600 people, is  dedicated solely to rose production, and others from Provence, are the driest of the dry with nary a sign of sweet in sight.  The Laurent Miquel Rose from Provence is destined to be the sleeper hit of the Rose Season. Syrah and Cinsault-based, it is such an elegant  and layered rose.  Balance is key here, and it delivers equal amounts of pretty red fruit and acid couched in a smooth, whipped cream texture, simultaneously satisfying many admirers of rose. I would venture to say it is several dollars under priced. All the better for us, right?

So, yes ,rose is delectable, but can food and rose even be mentioned in the same breath? Sipping is certainly not frowned upon, but rose's food-pairing potential is not to be taken lightly. Ranging from summer salads, light pasta dishes to Paella rose can definitely be counted on for support. Purchase some fresh greens at your local farmers market and arrange a classic dish of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella and basil drizzled with 10-year-old aged balsamic.  Anchored by healthy acidity, French roses are absolutely ideal for food-pairing. And in France, everybody drinks rose. There, and throughout Europe, controversy and condescension never visit rose's doorstep. Sitting down for dinner at a local cafe, rose is served immediately. Don't wanna piss of your French waiter who speaks fluent English, do you?

If you're keen on domestic roses, the Barnard Griffin from WA. State has held court for several years. While dry, the Griffins' fruit profile is more generous than its French counterparts.   Near and dear to my palate for several vintages, it spills over with red fruit flavour in every corner of your mouth. Notions of ripe luscious spring strawberries, raspberries and holiday candy flesh out the flavour profile of this modestly priced marvel.

Lest you think rose is meant for the dog days of summer, some people adore their roses regardless if the temperature is surging past 90 or ice blanketing their windshields.  My friend and Corkscrew compatriot, Jim wouldn't dare think of  completing a purchase at the store without several bottles of the pink stuff in tow for his rose-loving wife, Linda, one of many mothers I can choose from on any given day, depending on my mood. The locks would be changed, and Jim would be sleeping in the car. End of story.

My bias against rose is now a thing of the past. If you are still ambivalent about Rose, just start tasting, you will come around, I did.

Something tells me, there just might be a follow-up article on rose  in the not-too-distant future.  After all, it's only early June, and there's weeks of rose revelry ahead of us.
Cheers
Michael

An Introduction

My Life on the Vine. Are you Going to Swing With Me?
Welcome to My Wine Musings fellow devotees, wine drinkers, foodies and all those who are just simply curious and intrigued by the ever changing world of wine. Everybody has a journey. You might be a collector of prized vintages or perhaps you are a novice or a casual observer, never really giving much more than a passing thought to wine. One weekend, after much cajoling by friends, you enjoyed a casual glass of red or white at a neighbourhood restaurant or you even ventured into your local wine shop quietly purchasing a bottle , returned home, popped the corked (or screwcap, as that familiar '70s trend has reemerged) , slid in a DVD of Sex and the City , poured yourself a glass, absorbing the fragrant aromas, watching the liquid, someone's hard fought labor, hit the glass and thought to yourself, "What have I been missing,"?   I am Michael DeBeaulieu, wine consultant, passionate, nerdy wine enthusiast, and I invite you to explore, taste and learn with me through exhilarating vintages, Old and New World regions, exciting trends and above all discover for yourself the pleasure of wine. In addition to blogging and tending to my devoted Corkscrew customers, I also conduct Private and Corporate Tastings specializing in fundraisers, office and holiday  parties, conferences, formal dinner parties, anniversaries and birthdays.