Monday, December 5, 2011

Food and Wine, Part 2: Have Party Will Travel

Ever the perennial partygoer, Andy Warhol once said, "One's company, two's a crowd and three's a party." Here, here! Ah, Andy if only I been born a couple of decades earlier, the New York nightlife wouldn't have known  how to handle us.

I've never been accused, nor do I imagine I will, of not loving a great party. Evite arrives in the inbox, and I am the first to reply, depends on who is throwing the party naturally, and the venue has to be to my liking, but I can generally be counted on to be in attendance. Birthday, Holiday,or simply just because someone get a notion.

And then an epiphany!  I hawk wine for a living.  Why should my party advice stop when customers leave the store? I can direct this bash from beginning to its show stopping finish when the only things left are the dirty glasses and the die-hards scouring for the last drop!

Nary a day goes by when some nervous individual doesn't waltz in the store with menu in tow inquiring, "What wines would should I serve at my party." First of all there's nothing to be nervous about, it is simply a  party after all.  "The right wines," I reply, and "let's start with bubbles, and if there's no red involved you might as well cancel the whole affair. "

All you need is delicious food, the right company (leave the stodgy stiffs off the list) and, of course, wine! The rest will pretty much take care of itself.

I plan, I pour and I pontificate (although that gets a wee difficult after the guests finish their third glass) even though they try in vein to remain rapt listeners.

 Brittan and Brad Bolin, lobbyist and Assistant Clerk to the Illinois House of Representatives respectively,  were the first to take a chance on me. Bless their hearts. "We know you will do a great job," Brittan said in her quiet confident demeanor. That was nearly seven years ago, and the Bolins and I have been partying ever since.

Dependent upon her mood and where she and Brad's travels have taken them in the current calendar year, Brittan chooses a different theme each year. Last year was simply, "Our Favourites", the year before it was Germany and Austria, France prevailed the year before. This year it was no question. A Mediterranean theme dominated their thoughts after tasting and touring through the idyllic island of Greece.

I was pleased as our small but burgeoning Greek section was in dire need of some well-deserved love. Never a major player on the world wine scene and more (in)famous for Retsina, Greece's is just now living up to its potential,  attracting admirers for its racy whites and full-bodied reds. Tuscany, France and Italy fleshed out the rest of my wine selections.

Fresh from cutting her teeth in Chicago at a major catering company, my friend Ashley Glatz, proprietor of Real Cuisine, provided the exotic array of native Greek dishes.

The Illustrious chef herself, Ashley Glatz and her fiancee Cory, quite the chef himself!




The menu follows along with the wines and my thoughts on how the food and wine get on with each other.

Brittan's Brilliant Beef Tenderloin

Real Cuisine

Mediterranean Cocktail Menu

Tortellini Skewers
 with Broccoli Pesto



Meze Platter
with Homemade Dolmathes,
Feta, Olives, and Marinated Mushrooms



Borek
Turkish Cheese & Herb Filled Pastries





Smokey Babaganoush and Tzatzki
with Toasted Pita


Bruschetta
With Tapenade, Caponata, and Rosemary White Bean Spread



Pinchos Morunos
Spiced Saffron Pork Kebabs

Baklava

Sugar Cookies (from an 1812 recipe) No pic available, just let your mind wander!!



WHITES
2010 Sigalas White, GreeceEconomically, they are in peril, but the wine industry just may be Greece’s saving grace. Established in 1991, the Sigalas estate and its owners recognized the impending need for modern technology in order for the estate to flourish. Modern vinification methods were implemented while bottling and aging equipment was purchased. In 1994 the estate achieved organic status. Born of popular native varietals Assyrtiko and Athiri on the picturesque island of Santorini, this complex blend bears comparisons to White Burgundy in that it’s aged in stainless steel and guided by a strong influence of acidity. Defined by a sense of vivacity and freshness as well as suggestions of lemon and mineral, it will endear itself to fans normally keen on Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. Results: Pairs brilliantly with the feta cheese as it has that crispy crunchy salty air aromas that mingles well with the salt from the feta. Try it with the Turkish Cheese and Herb filled pastries as it is normally difficult to pair wine with spinach. A nice complement to the Tzatzki (cucumber) sauce on pita bread. So so versatile, it works well with the Tortellini skewers; basil based dishes crave dry whites with high acid or else the wine will fade before you swallow the first sip. 


2009 Lafleur Pouilly-Fuisse, France –  Pouilly- Fuisee achieved fame decades ago and today it is still one of the most recognized appellations in the Burgundy region of France. Georges Dubeouf awakened people to the charm of this area, but niche, small production producers have achieved more impressive results. Located in the sub region of Maconnais, this chardonnay-based wine is reveals bright fruit with elements of pear and ripe apple charged by pure-bright acidity and background mineral. The fruit profile is forward enough to consume on its own or pair with fish, chicken or pesto dishes. Results: The creaminess from the wine mingles nicely with the olive oil from the Tortellini skewers. Matches nicely with the Baklava as the pear and apple fruit from the wine wraps around the moderately sweet nuances from the Baklava.


REDS
2009 Les Vins de Vienne Les Cranilles Cotes du Rhone, France  Located in the Southern Rhone Valley in France, this charmer is a collaboration of four of the top premier winemakers in the Northern Rhone who purchased grapes believing they could outdo their brethren in the South. Grenache is in the driver’s seat with significant contributions from Syrah and Mourvedre. Their impressive effort implies a resemblance to Gigondas or Vacqueryas with its rich style, dark brooding fruit and notes of earth, cassis and herbs. Results: The smokiness and earthiness that permeate the marinated mushrooms and the Babaganoush are also present in the wine so it's just natural the three of them would to get to know each other, remember what Andy said, "Three's a party.


2009 Villa des Anges Cabernet, France  – Arguably the most popular red wine varietal on the planet, cabernet settles in quite comfortably in the South of France. This medium to full-bodied concentrated cabernet releases impressions of cassis, black cherry fruit, and Asian spices buoyed by sound but not intrusive tannins. Results: A big cab necessitates red meat so it's no surprise that Brittan's Beef Loin is the inevitable choice but it also works with the marinated mushrooms too. 


2008 Coltibuono Chianti Classico, Italy –   Each wine region produces an ascendant star; Bordeaux and Burgundy’s centuries long reign in France is evident to even mere wine novices, while Chianti is the undisputed titan in Tuscany, Italy. There’s no denying Chianti’s well-earned place in wine history, and Coltibuono’s contribution has not gone unnoticed. Perennially popular? Yes, but they refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity; integrity wins out here. Aged in French oak and tailored to a modern palate, albeit with some rustic edges, this savoury Sangiovese is imbued with bright, tingly cherry fruit, herbs, and spice vividly brought to life with heart acidity.  Results: I have said it before, and I will say it again: Italian wine needs food. The protein from the beef and lamb rounds the acidic edges of the Chianti, but on the flip side the acidity and tannin of the wine is vital as it allows the wine to rendezvous with the meat.


2007 Alpha Syrah , Greece  - Greece’s white wine potential is clearly recognised. Next on the agenda is their looming goal to upend consumers’ mindset about red wine; cultivating a red wine following is about as easy as running a marathon while chain smoking cigarettes. Talk is talk but proof is in the pudding. Having tasted this syrah several times over the past year and other Greek reds, I must say I am surprisingly impressed. They are no longer one-note, village wines meant for the moment; they are meant for an occasion, a celebration. Inroads are being made, and the Alpha Syrah can deservedly assume some of the credit. The fruit is sourced from the Turtles Vineyard (this is the area where the lazy creatures would lounge and sun themselves centuries ago).  It unfolds with delightful cherry aromas and silky ripe fruit on the palate then assumes a new identity redolent of Darjeeling tea and Herbs de Provence which are just downright irresistible, but its focused structure and tannins that culminate into a stretched-out finish elevate it to contender status. Results: The earthy quality from the  Lamb Kabobs and the protein-rich Beef Tenderloin demand a hearty red.

The wonderful hostess, Brittan Bolin and myself, and our fellow wine and food enthusiasts











Cheers
The Wine Scribe
Michael





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