Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Mondavi Within Our Midst


Tuesday started out as rather ho-hum.  It was just me and Danielle. Cathy was vacationing in the backwoods of West Virginia:  4-wheelers, moonshine, mountain people and all the trappings of country life. Danielle and I were pounded with phone calls from the get-go: pre-recorded sales calls, inquires as to what time we closed and my all-time favourite, Are we open? Of course we are open, I just answered the phone. Click.  Do we carry wine from New Jersey? Really. I feared what was coming next.

And then Southern Wine and Spirits Rep Dennis Klinc, as American as apple pie and hardworking and reliable  as they come, rang up. "Are we going to be around to taste some wines", he inquired? "No, I replied. I'm leaving the store to become a Ginsu Knife salesman".  "Of course, Danielle and I will be here,  Where else would we be? "Well, I've got Peter Mondavi with me in the car and he would like to sample out his newest releases".  I was absolutely sure he was putting me on. I deserved it after all. Notoriously absent minded, Dennis constantly misplaces his cell phone, computer and anything else that isn't humanly attached to his person. And just for fun, when he's in the shop, I hide these things, tormenting him even more. I absconded with his Blackberry and replaced it with a broken razor phone and he started to use it. I even moved his car once, three blocks away. This was his revenge. But, no, honest as the day is long, Dennis was telling the truth. Peter Mondavi was indeed in Springfield.

So, in they both walked.  For some reason, the Dynasty theme song was blaring in my head. Coincidentally,  Peter bore a resemblance to a young 50ish John Forsyth, tall, charming, elegant, salt and pepper hair and smartly dressed in a Navy blazer and corn flower blue T-shirt, all California calm. Comparisons aside, Peter, along with his father, Peter Sr. and his brother Mark, power their own wine dynasty buoyed  by a cadre of devoted followers. Charles Krug Winery  is as synonymous with the California wine scene as Hershey is to chocolate.

  Danielle and I were a bit palate fatigued from just having tasted and toured various other wines from scores of other peddlers. but this was a huge opportunity. I politely excused myself while I nourished myself with a salmon salad and Danielle wolfed down some rice. Dennis, naturally, forgot something at his previous appointment and ran back to retrieve it. Peter checked his email. I finished my lunch, and then I  proceeded to play wine journalist.

He didn't seem to mind. In fact, he seemed accustomed to it. Touring the country nearly a third of the year, Peter is the public relations mastermind behind Charles Krug Wines. Krug bears the distinction of being one of the most venerable and most competitive wineries still enduring long after others have given up the game and gone home; only two other wineries in California share such storied history. Say what you will, but they have longevity on their side.  Stopping in at wine shops, feeling the pulse of the wine buying public and generally making sure suppliers and shop owners are moving product are his top priorities. Definitely on top his game.  

I inquired how the tentative economy had affected sales. He confessed that everyone at all economic levels pulled back.  " However, Krug is a name brand, people want something tried and true, plus heritage and image softened the impact. We are now at pre-recession levels," he confidently said. Spoken like a confident business man who knows his product, stands behind it and expertly knows how to weather jarring economic conditions. 

In the last several years,  I have witnessed firsthand consumers' rapidly changing buying patterns and with the economic downturn our buying habits as a retailer have evolved as well; we simply had no choice if we were to survive.  If somebody is going to fork over $20 for a California cabernet, they want it to taste like a $30 cabernet. Can't blame them. There is literally a plethora of phenomenal wine out there.  There is no room for pretenders; they will fall by the wayside like a naive, out-of-shape player challenging the reigning champ at Wimbledon. Along with disciplining their wallets, consumers have sharpened their palates . The heat is on! 

Now, let's get down to brass tax. Equipped with history, vision and ambition does Krug deliver the goods? Yes and yes! 

Their fiscal friendly  CK Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent value. Alive with citrus, body and freshness, it's perfect for a summer quaffer.

Their  CK field blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Syrah  reveals pretty red fruit, delicate tannins and instant likability. 

The Charles Krug Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from prime St. Helena grapes is rich in melon, peach and passion fruit, a brilliant companion to fish.

The Charles Krug Pinot Noir (4500 cases), sired from the pinot-prized appelation of Carneros, exhibits earth, early morning dew, smoke, black cherry and spice. Can I suggest Sockeye salmon?

The Charles Krug Merlot is sturdy, robust and and rich yet sleek like a merlot should be, to many others try to don the cabernet hat. If they want merlot give 'em merlot. 

The '08 Charles Krug Cabernet, a vintage rivaling '07 some say surpasses it, Mondavi says it is superior. Holding things closer to the vest amid formidable tannins, this baby just needs time.

Finally, the '08 Krug Generation , their golden boy, if you will, is sensational. Driving this sleek Napa Bordeaux-influenced blend is 56% Cabernet, 31% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petite Verdot. Brandishing incredible depth of power and richness, its underlying weapon is finesse on the finish, in short,  balance between the feminine and the masculine. 

Who knew Tuesdays could be so rewarding? Thank you Peter. 

Cheers
Michael












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