The Ascension of Portugal

Just up until a scant few years ago, the mere mention of Portugal as a serious wine-producing region would have left people scoffing and dismissing the notion. Their neighbor to the east, Spain, was the Goliath to Portugal's David.  Always revered for their Port, they failed to wine kudos beyond their beloved fortified wines. Their simple, rustic table reds and whites were fine for travelers or locals.  As in political campaigns, momentum has moved in the direction of the underdog; they are now a contender. Not just because the wine press is searching for the new darling of the wine world, but because Portugal is truly earning its keep.

As an 11-year workhorse wine veteran, I have tasted Portuguese whites and reds, and I must say the positives far outweighed the negatives, yet they were the indie movie without the financial backing of a big studio. I consume Vinho Verde (Green Wine) like a mad man in the steamy heat of summer. Spritzy, light, low alcohol and  fancy fun, it is the perfect aperitif. Even a year or so back, during a weekend visit with friends in Chicago, all of us were left speechless by a polished red blend from the Dao region----at a pocket friendly $12, no less.

The never-ending recession left people hungry for exceptional wine at a fraction of what they have been accustomed to forking over at their local shops. Spain, South America and Australia swept in keeping  consumers content. But now, Portugal's was eyeing its opportunity to gain a foothold in the market.

Energetic and passionate winemakers from the Douro, Dao, Alentejo and Vinho Verde regions have kicked things into high gear. As the risk of being too wonky, they tossed out those old musty oak barrels, exploited their yields in the Alentejo and Dao region and kept things at a minimum in the Douro. The Douro  is named after the Duero River in nearby Spain. Surrounded by steep vineyards, this is the region that can in time compete on the same world wide level as Napa, Bordeaux, Barossa, OZ and Mendoza, Argentina. South of the Douro, the Dao, and the Alentejo regions, are rich with fruit-driven, friendly everyday bargains. This could potentially be a cash cow for them.

So with all this talk of Portuguese wine, a Saturday tasting at the Corkscrew was in order.  Hosted by Boy Brainerd, a native of Napa and now a wine distributor in the Chicago area, Boy defies the stereotype of a wine peddler. Sporting a thick beard and near shoulder length hair, he resembles a band member from the late 70s/early 80s era. Any Black Sabbath or AC/DC fans out there? But, boy oh boy (sorry, just couldn't resist), does Boy know his wine. Earning his stripes as the marketing and sales guru at fan fave Gundlach Bundschu, Boy is now our go-to guy for the latest Portuguese releases. He earns high marks from us as he recognizes Springfield as the actual capital of Illinois; we tend to get a little touchy when we're ignored in favor of the folks up north. His Midwestern friendly charm coupled with his mid-alto, radio-friendly voice and his many wine stories from back in the day left customers asking, "When is Boy coming back"?

The line-up included the Herade de Esporao Verdelho, a kissing cousin to Spain's Verdejo grape. This medium-bodied delight is awash in subtle citrus, island tropical fruit and melon notes cut by its backbone of tight acidity generating a lasting finish.  A perfect match with seafood-based Paella, wouldn't you say?

The Alentejo-based Monte Velho Wines, both red and white, are an absolute treasure. Talk about bang-for-your-buck.  The white is so palate-friendly with its cushiony texture, fragrant aromas and fruit profile of pear, Gala apple and baking spice notes. Eat your heart out California chardonnay.

Plush, round and pleasing, the red is chock full of flavours of plum, cherry, and vanilla lounging in the gentlest of tannins. You can pair these with chicken or fish offerings, but in all reality their causal approach is perfect for everyday quaffing sans food.

Now let's move  on to the heavy hitter. Surely you didn't think I was going to close the curtain before the grand finale. The Douro-based Assobio is a blend of Tinta Roriz (a clone of Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barroca. I know, you're thinking you don't know these varietals from adam. Native to Portugal, Touriga Nacional is the heftier of the three, Tinta Roriz conveys finesse and Tinta Barocca is used mainly for port, and obviously, red blends, mainly for conveying rich, dark hues.

Elegant and stunning with moderately leathery tannins that don't overstay their welcome, the Assobio invites comparisons to those aforementioned regions, and deservedly so. Boasting a moderate alcohol level of 13.5%,  it's anchored by a trove of  red berries and concentrated cherries amidst an intriguing undercurrent of warm, late afternoon sun, earth and mineral. Never for a moment does the Assobio morph into a heavy-handed wine; it carefully dances the tightrope of intensity and finesse from beginning to its gloriously long finish.  This is not an easy task, mind you. Many of today's wines, not going to mention any region or names here, want to hammer it home. Don't get me wrong, I love power in my wines, but if that's all you have to offer, I'm afraid I will have to break off the relationship. Sadly, the Assobio starts to fade a day after opening. Irrelevant as it won't make it that long in my house anyway. And, really, at $15, we have nothing to complain about and everything to celebrate.

Though we were done, eh? Not just yet. Boy caught us off guard with a concoction he refers to as a "Portonic". Equal amounts white port and tonic water (diet tonic for us counting calories), it is refreshing with just a sliver of sweet on the palate, not at all cloying. The fizz from the tonic add to the liveliness of this unique, summertime treat. Even my friend Carolin, another one of my Mom's, seemed to take to it and she abhors anything remotely sweet.

As long as prices remain steady, i.e. don't get too big for your britches Portugal or you will face a backlash, and the w(v)ines continue to be nourished by dedicated and innovative vintners, the sky is the limit.

Cheers
Michael