Food and Wine, Part 2: Have Party Will Travel

Ever the perennial partygoer, Andy Warhol once said, "One's company, two's a crowd and three's a party." Here, here! Ah, Andy if only I been born a couple of decades earlier, the New York nightlife wouldn't have known  how to handle us.

I've never been accused, nor do I imagine I will, of not loving a great party. Evite arrives in the inbox, and I am the first to reply, depends on who is throwing the party naturally, and the venue has to be to my liking, but I can generally be counted on to be in attendance. Birthday, Holiday,or simply just because someone get a notion.

And then an epiphany!  I hawk wine for a living.  Why should my party advice stop when customers leave the store? I can direct this bash from beginning to its show stopping finish when the only things left are the dirty glasses and the die-hards scouring for the last drop!

Nary a day goes by when some nervous individual doesn't waltz in the store with menu in tow inquiring, "What wines would should I serve at my party." First of all there's nothing to be nervous about, it is simply a  party after all.  "The right wines," I reply, and "let's start with bubbles, and if there's no red involved you might as well cancel the whole affair. "

All you need is delicious food, the right company (leave the stodgy stiffs off the list) and, of course, wine! The rest will pretty much take care of itself.

I plan, I pour and I pontificate (although that gets a wee difficult after the guests finish their third glass) even though they try in vein to remain rapt listeners.

 Brittan and Brad Bolin, lobbyist and Assistant Clerk to the Illinois House of Representatives respectively,  were the first to take a chance on me. Bless their hearts. "We know you will do a great job," Brittan said in her quiet confident demeanor. That was nearly seven years ago, and the Bolins and I have been partying ever since.

Dependent upon her mood and where she and Brad's travels have taken them in the current calendar year, Brittan chooses a different theme each year. Last year was simply, "Our Favourites", the year before it was Germany and Austria, France prevailed the year before. This year it was no question. A Mediterranean theme dominated their thoughts after tasting and touring through the idyllic island of Greece.

I was pleased as our small but burgeoning Greek section was in dire need of some well-deserved love. Never a major player on the world wine scene and more (in)famous for Retsina, Greece's is just now living up to its potential,  attracting admirers for its racy whites and full-bodied reds. Tuscany, France and Italy fleshed out the rest of my wine selections.

Fresh from cutting her teeth in Chicago at a major catering company, my friend Ashley Glatz, proprietor of Real Cuisine, provided the exotic array of native Greek dishes.

The Illustrious chef herself, Ashley Glatz and her fiancee Cory, quite the chef himself!

The menu follows along with the wines and my thoughts on how the food and wine get on with each other.

Brittan's Brilliant Beef Tenderloin

Real Cuisine

Mediterranean Cocktail Menu

Tortellini Skewers

 with Broccoli Pesto

Meze Platter

with Homemade Dolmathes,

Feta, Olives, and Marinated Mushrooms

Borek

Turkish Cheese & Herb Filled Pastries

Smokey Babaganoush and Tzatzki

with Toasted Pita

Bruschetta

With Tapenade, Caponata, and Rosemary White Bean Spread

Pinchos Morunos

Spiced Saffron Pork Kebabs

Baklava

Sugar Cookies (from an 1812 recipe) No pic available, just let your mind wander!!

WHITES

2010 Sigalas White, Greece – Economically, they are in peril, but the wine industry just may be Greece’s saving grace. Established in 1991, the Sigalas estate and its owners recognized the impending need for modern technology in order for the estate to flourish. Modern vinification methods were implemented while bottling and aging equipment was purchased. In 1994 the estate achieved organic status. Born of popular native varietals Assyrtiko and Athiri on the picturesque island of Santorini, this complex blend bears comparisons to White Burgundy in that it’s aged in stainless steel and guided by a strong influence of acidity. Defined by a sense of vivacity and freshness as well as suggestions of lemon and mineral, it will endear itself to fans normally keen on Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. Results: Pairs brilliantly with the feta cheese as it has that crispy crunchy salty air aromas that mingles well with the salt from the feta. Try it with the Turkish Cheese and Herb filled pastries as it is normally difficult to pair wine with spinach. A nice complement to the Tzatzki (cucumber) sauce on pita bread. So so versatile, it works well with the Tortellini skewers; basil based dishes crave dry whites with high acid or else the wine will fade before you swallow the first sip. 

2009 Lafleur Pouilly-Fuisse, France –  Pouilly- Fuisee achieved fame decades ago and today it is still one of the most recognized appellations in the Burgundy region of France. Georges Dubeouf awakened people to the charm of this area, but niche, small production producers have achieved more impressive results. Located in the sub region of Maconnais, this chardonnay-based wine is reveals bright fruit with elements of pear and ripe apple charged by pure-bright acidity and background mineral. The fruit profile is forward enough to consume on its own or pair with fish, chicken or pesto dishes. Results: The creaminess from the wine mingles nicely with the olive oil from the Tortellini skewers. Matches nicely with the Baklava as the pear and apple fruit from the wine wraps around the moderately sweet nuances from the Baklava.

REDS

2009 Les Vins de Vienne Les Cranilles Cotes du Rhone, France  Located in the Southern Rhone Valley in France, this charmer is a collaboration of four of the top premier winemakers in the Northern Rhone who purchased grapes believing they could outdo their brethren in the South. Grenache is in the driver’s seat with significant contributions from Syrah and Mourvedre. Their impressive effort implies a resemblance to Gigondas or Vacqueryas with its rich style, dark brooding fruit and notes of earth, cassis and herbs. Results: The smokiness and earthiness that permeate the marinated mushrooms and the Babaganoush are also present in the wine so it's just natural the three of them would to get to know each other, remember what Andy said, "Three's a party.

2009 Villa des Anges Cabernet, France  – Arguably the most popular red wine varietal on the planet, cabernet settles in quite comfortably in the South of France. This medium to full-bodied concentrated cabernet releases impressions of cassis, black cherry fruit, and Asian spices buoyed by sound but not intrusive tannins. Results: A big cab necessitates red meat so it's no surprise that Brittan's Beef Loin is the inevitable choice but it also works with the marinated mushrooms too. 

2008 Coltibuono Chianti Classico, Italy –   Each wine region produces an ascendant star; Bordeaux and Burgundy’s centuries long reign in France is evident to even mere wine novices, while Chianti is the undisputed titan in Tuscany, Italy. There’s no denying Chianti’s well-earned place in wine history, and Coltibuono’s contribution has not gone unnoticed. Perennially popular? Yes, but they refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity; integrity wins out here. Aged in French oak and tailored to a modern palate, albeit with some rustic edges, this savoury Sangiovese is imbued with bright, tingly cherry fruit, herbs, and spice vividly brought to life with heart acidity.  Results: I have said it before, and I will say it again: Italian wine needs food. The protein from the beef and lamb rounds the acidic edges of the Chianti, but on the flip side the acidity and tannin of the wine is vital as it allows the wine to rendezvous with the meat.

2007 Alpha Syrah , Greece  - Greece’s white wine potential is clearly recognised. Next on the agenda is their looming goal to upend consumers’ mindset about red wine; cultivating a red wine following is about as easy as running a marathon while chain smoking cigarettes. Talk is talk but proof is in the pudding. Having tasted this syrah several times over the past year and other Greek reds, I must say I am surprisingly impressed. They are no longer one-note, village wines meant for the moment; they are meant for an occasion, a celebration. Inroads are being made, and the Alpha Syrah can deservedly assume some of the credit. The fruit is sourced from the Turtles Vineyard (this is the area where the lazy creatures would lounge and sun themselves centuries ago).  It unfolds with delightful cherry aromas and silky ripe fruit on the palate then assumes a new identity redolent of Darjeeling tea and Herbs de Provence which are just downright irresistible, but its focused structure and tannins that culminate into a stretched-out finish elevate it to contender status. Results: The earthy quality from the  Lamb Kabobs and the protein-rich Beef Tenderloin demand a hearty red.

The wonderful hostess, Brittan Bolin and myself, and our fellow wine and food enthusiasts

Cheers
The Wine Scribe
Michael

The Evolution of Food and Wine: Part 1

Like Bogart and Bacall, like Vegas and the poker tables, like a lazy Sunday afternoon and football (don't get too accustomed to the sports metaphors), food and wine are forever inextricably linked. Food enhances and changes a wine's character and vice versa. They should complement and fawn over each other, not tussle and tango, save that for the dance floor. 

Americans delight in their food and wine, but save for the last 5 years, the two were mutually exclusive. Not anymore. As far as Europeans are concerned, they scoff at the notion of just lazily sipping a wine after dinner. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a glass of red on the heels of a frenetic day selling wine at the Corskcrew; sometimes that is simply all I desire. But if I am preparing Seafood Linguini or Moroccan Chicken my thoughts turn to wine. If I am preparing a plate of pasta adorned with mushroom marinara, I let my mind envision images of a Chianti Classico or a Barbera from Piedmont. 

Years ago I overheard a customer say, "I think I will enjoy a cabernet after dinner." He was grilling steaks on his new Weber Grill.  Why wasn't he drinking the wine with his slab of grilled beef? Is he barking mad? I haven't touched red meat in nearly two decades but even I could see the error of his ways. After some prodding he promised me he would change his ways. Returning a week later wearing a big smile, he declared the cabernet a winner.  Might it have had something to do paring the cab with the steak as protein from the meat will temper those taut tannins?

My first dalliance with food and wine was illuminating and invigorating to say the least. Everything finally clicked, as it did when ultimately I figured out how to master my DVR.  A fancy, extravagant restaurant in Chicago with a 3-month wait list? No. Strangely, it was right here in Springpatch, on the northend of town, a stone's throw from the long since closed roller rink and just around the corner from a gay bar which has since turned into a destination for Harley enthusiasts. If those walls could talk, eh? 

Of course, I am referring to Magic Kitchen, a local hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant that's been a staple of the restaurant scene for over twenty years. To say it's developed a diehard following is akin to calling Steven Spielberg just another Hollywood director.  It's my de-facto choice to take out-of-town friends who are keen on what the locals love, and I do absolutely love it.  Crowd favourite Pad Thai, as well as their Chili Paste, dry Bume Noodle Soup and their spring rolls will make your mouth water. If you still have room left in your tummy try their sticky rice ice cream entrenched with peanuts and pistachio filling. Yum! 

Anyway, my moment occurred in 1996. Feeling brave, I ordered the Cashew Chicken, not a groundbreaking choice by any stretch, but it was just so damn delicious I didn't care.  I like what I like and sometimes one just wants something familiar.  When the server inquired how spicy,  I demurely replied, "Mild Plus." Medium and Hot were simply out of my comfort zone, maybe next time. 

Mind you, Magic Kitchen allowed you to bring in your own alcohol as they didn't carry a liquor license and there was no burdensome corkage fee! I love Riesling, mainly the dry sort, and the truly great ones live on for infinity if laced with proper acidity, but if Thai is in the picture, I gravitate towards a Kabinett or Spatlese. No cheap, mediocre mass-produced ones in a blue bottle but a distinguished one from the Mosel or Rheingau.  The mild plus was a bit much, but then I imbibed a sip of the Riesling and the heat did indeed assuage the heat;  it didn't disappear, it just disciplined it, took the sting out of it, if you will. I was just in awe, blushing almost. Bells were ringing and angels were singing. The habaneros, jalapenos and God knows what other spices and peppers dancing around on my palate craved the Riesling, as if they had been searching for each other all this time. 

I have prepared a list of general food and wine pairings. Some are traditional choices; other are less mainstream reflecting the emergence of new regions and niche varietals. I am, after all,  always on the prowl for new and exciting trends and undiscovered varietals. Nothing is set in stone. These are merely guidelines, not hard and fast rules. You might have something new to bring to the table, pun intended. 

I must give credit where it is due.  I developed my format from Kendall-Jackson's website, quite organized they are. They are naturally focused on promoting their own line of wines, as they should be. I maintained a few of their basic tenets of food and wine pairing, but I dramatically altered it creating an all-encompassing, uncompromising list of wine varietals, and I chose dishes I personally prepared or someone had kindly prepared for me. 

The Wine Scribe

Michael

The Evolution of Food and Wine

Choose Similar Flavors
Similar food and wine flavors complement each other.
Example: Sea Bass with mango/citrus marinade will partner with Gruner Veltliner, Albarino or Sauvignon Blanc as the lemon/lime and tropical flavors evident in the wine and marinade will play off each other.

Example: Grilled or Smoked Chicken would pair with a Cotes-du-Rhone, Spanish Tempranillo or Monastrell as they exude a smoky, earthy, slightly peppery quality.

Choose Similar Weight and Texture
Similarly weighted food and wine stabilize each other, but not always!

Example: Lobster and Chardonnay are both medium-weight and rich so they complement each other. However, an edgier, crisp wine like Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis or Dry Riesling may be necessary to cut the heaviness of lobster drenched in butter. It is simply a matter of personal preference.

Choose the Same Sweetness Level
Wine should be equal to or higher in sugar than the dish.
Example: Roasted pork with apple glaze pairs beautifully with German Riesling or an Oregon Pinot Gris.

Example: Chocolate with Port

Salt Needs Crispness
Crisp wines balance salty flavors.
Example: A crisp Dry Riesling or Sancerre balances salty olives, goat and feta cheese.

Pair with the Sauce
Pair the wine to the sauce served.
Example: An Italian Gavi or an Alsatian Pinot Blanc will match with Pasta Primavera as the pasta and wines are texture-rich yet the acid level of the wine will counter the weight of the pasta.

Example:  Lemon-glazed chicken would pair with a Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre or Chablis as these wines typically convey suggestions of lemon and a fair amount of acid.

Example: A Red Burgundy teamed up with Cornish game hens accompanied by a pomegranate sauce will sing beautifully as the Burgundy reveals an array of berry flavors.

No Sauce? Pair with the Meat
Match wine to meat, fish or poultry when serving without a sauce. Stick with an all-purpose wine.
Example: Pinot Noir partners perfectly with Duck or Salmon; Chardonnay or German Riesling with turkey.

Example:  A White Burgundy, American Chardonnay (not too oaky, please!) or Pinot Gris/Grigio matched with Roast chicken or Baked Fish.

It Is All In The Way You Treat The Meat

Meat doesn’t always dictate the style of wine; the herbs, sauces and spices run the show.

Example: A chicken breast slathered with BBQ sauce necessitates a Shiraz, Red Zin or Rhone Wine

Example: On the flip side, if you marinate the chicken in Italian dressing or a soy sauce/honey/ cilantro glaze one would choose a Dry Riesling, Gruner, Sauvignon Blanc or a Soave.

Spicy Foods
Sweeter wines temper the heat from spicy foods.
Example: Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Vouvray pairs well with Asian cuisines like Pad Thai or Sushi; the sweet from the wine and the heat from the food create a teeter-totter effect.

A “Meaty” wine for a Meaty dish
Grilled meat or Pasta dishes demand formidable wines equipped with sturdy tannins and acid so they will flourish not fade.  Plus, the protein of the food will soften the tannins and acid creating a more approachable wine when paired with food rather than simply alone.

Example: A Red Zinfandel, Cabernet-based Bordeaux, Barolo or Shiraz with Seared Ahi Tuna or a Filet.

Example: A Chianti or Brunello partnered with Fresh Parmesan is a classic; the parm will tone down the tannic structure of these Sangiovese-based wines.

Consider Acid Levels
Like sweetness, wine should be equal to, or higher, in acid than the dish so the food can match wits with the wine.
Example: Chianti or Barbera matches well with tomato-based sauce as both the food and the wine come equipped with a high degree of acidity.