"I need summer whites," everyone has been screaming lately. "Sheets at Macy's," I sarcastically replied to a customer I kibitz with on a regular basis. She rolled her eyes and told me I had ten minutes to complete my task and "nothing with any oak, I hate oak" she proudly said as if oak were her archenemy.
Easy enough, not a problem. No fan of oak myself, I gravitate towards clean, crisp and clear whites, no oak to muddy the fruit. Although, I must make exception for some Premier Cru White Burgundy, but that wasn't in her budget so it wasn't an issue. She left happy, and I was given carte blanche to introduce her to a world of dry Riesling, Cortese and Gruner Veltliner. What, no Pinot Grigio? Not if I have anything to say about the matter.
As the heat ravages the entire country not to mention the suffocating humidity the Midwest is blessed with, white wines sales have skyrocketed. I haven't seen anything like it since, well, last summer. I drink white all year round. It simply doesn't matter whether it's a rainy fall day or sweat is dripping down my brow, I always build it up with white even though a glass of red may end up in my hand by the close of the evening.
The following reflects my personal taste, yes, and although you may be skeptical or unfamiliar with these varietals or countries, I'm convinced a brand new white wine world is waiting for you and your palate.
Cono Sur Riesling (Chile) - Medium-bodied and crisp, this Chilean gem swings towards the drier side, perfect for those of you, like myself, who are keen on that style. Striking is its chardonnay-like body, longer than expected finish and ample acidity. Expressions of citrus, pear and mineral form the flavour profile of this modestly priced yet impressive white. If you are looking to get your feet with dry Riesling yet still tussling with all those horrid stories about riesling rotting your teeth out, you need look no further.
Huber Traisental Gruner Veltliner (Austria) - Chefs, wine geeks and I adore this varietal. Native to Austria, Gruner or GruVe as it's sometimes referred to, although I am not sure sure such an important wine be saddled with a nickname. However, as long as it's being talked about and consumed, I really don't have a problem with what moniker you attach to it. I champion Gruner at nearly every opportunity, sometimes my intensity may just get the best of me but I mean well, really. The vineyards are comprised of rock, slate and stone, barely any grass, no resemblance to California at all more like a cemetery after a tornado knocked blew down all the headstones. Capturing the terroir perfectly, the medium-bodied Huber struts out citrus,stone, white pepper, lime and herbs. Its complexity and its crackling acidity bodes well for food: Indian, Basil-based Thai dishes and cream-based soups.
Castelvero Cortese (Italy) - Cultivated in Piedmont in northwest Italy, Cortese generally calls Gavi home and with that designation Cortese can zoom into the $20 mark and beyond. This gem falls outside of that particular zone but the quality isn't compromised and you save a few bucks. Palate-awakening, it conveys citrus, mineral, crisp apple and lemon. If you are devoted to sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio then check out this charmer. Pairs wonderfully with chicken, scallops, olive-oil based pasta or just sip away sans food.
Rocky Gully Dry Riesling (Australia) - For a country so identified for their high octane shiraz, they are wholly underestimated for their age-worthy dry Riesling. Riesling craves cooler climate, and OZ gets a wee bit hot but in small cooler climate pockets they can churn out a bloody good drop of dry white wine. There is an interesting juxtaposition at work here. At one point it is defined, crisp and to the point, yet on the mid-palate it inhabits assumes a languid, lanolin-like texture. Lime, lemon zest and subtle petrol aromas flesh out the aromatic and flavour profile of this chamelon-like wine. I can't argue with the Aussies on this one. Having spend a fortnight there, I must agree with them that oysters is their ultimate food partner although ceviche is a close second.
Cantele Negroamaro Rose (Italy) - Surely you didn't think I could pen an article on summer whites and exclude a rose. Although certainly not a white, summer time and rose go together like a hammock and the Sunday edition of the New York Times. Lovely and lush, the Negroamaro grape from southern Central Southern Italy, is the ideal varietal for those desiring more fruit in their rose. Not a sweeter version mind you, but just a richer fruit profile featuring late season strawberries and raspberry as the headliners in this show-stopper. Ideal with fruit-based quinoa drizzled with balsamic vinegar.
Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc (South Africa) - I've always been a fan of South African Chenin even while everyone raves about their Sauvignon Blancs. I adore it because it is both simultaneously round and full yet it finish races to a decidedly dry,crisp profile; this is such a versatile with so much to offer. Crunchy, fresh-from-the orchard apples amid notions of quince and citrus drives the flavour profile. This is so inexpensive it's almost criminal.
Cheers
Michael